Brocade

What it is

Brocade is a supplementary weft technique. The base cloth is woven in the usual way, and additional coloured or metallic threads are inserted only where the design calls for them, so they appear as raised figures on the surface. On the back, the unused extra thread often hangs as loose floats that the weaver trims away. Because the motif is woven rather than printed or embroidered, it will not wash out or peel. The word is also used loosely for any heavily patterned silk, so it helps to look at the structure: real brocade shows pattern threads that travel with the weave. Indian brocades are most often silk with zari, and they are among the heaviest and most formal saree fabrics.

How it is made, step by step

Silk yarn is first reeled, degummed and dyed in skeins, then wound onto bobbins and warped on the loom. The design is drawn on graph paper and turned into a pattern card set. Traditionally a jacquard loom reads punched cards, and the weaver sits at a pit loom throwing the shuttle by hand, while a helper once sat above to lift the draw cords. Fine work uses a separate small shuttle for each patch of colour, a technique called kadhua. Zari is wound on its own bobbins and shot through only where the motif sits. One saree can take from about two weeks to several months depending on density.

The motifs and looks it is known for

Banarasi brocade draws on Mughal garden designs: the jaal, an all-over net of climbing flowers and leaves; the butidar, scattered small buttis; and the shikargah, a hunting scene with animals among trees. The kalga and bel are paisley and creeper forms, and the jangla is a dense wild-forest pattern. Borders often carry a narrow band of repeated leaves or a wider pallu with a large cluster of motifs. Kanchipuram and Paithani brocades lean toward temple, peacock and parrot figures. The look is rich and slightly raised, with a gleam that changes with the light, and the colours are traditionally deep reds, greens, maroons and blues set against gold.

Where it is made

Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh is the best known home of brocade weaving, with Muslim weaving families, the Ansari community in particular, forming a large part of the workforce, alongside Hindu traders and designers. Nearby Mubarakpur and Mau in the same region weave related silks. Surat in Gujarat produced kinkhab and tanchoi style brocades and supplies much of the cheaper zari. In Maharashtra, Yeola and Paithan weave brocade-like silks, and Tamil Nadu has Kanchipuram brocades woven with heavy gold. Bengal, Mysore and parts of Rajasthan have also woven brocade in the past. Weaving is a family trade, with men typically at the loom, women often preparing yarn, and separate specialists making cards and dyeing.

History in brief

Weaving silk with gold thread in India is old, and the tradition of heavy brocade, called kinkhab, is mentioned in texts from the first millennium. Banaras became prominent as a brocade centre under the Mughals, when Persian and Central Asian craftsmen and tastes shaped the designs, and it later served court, temple and wedding markets across the country. In the twentieth century the powerloom and cheaper synthetic yarns reached the trade, and the hand-weaving sector has struggled to keep its share since. Today handloom and powerloom brocade exist side by side, and Banaras brocade carries a Geographical Indication tag alongside related crafts of the region.

Buying and caring for it

To judge genuine brocade, turn the saree over. A handwoven piece shows neat floats or cut threads behind the motif, and the pattern should be woven through, not sit as a print or sticker. A power-woven piece looks very even and the edges may feel stiff, while a handloom will have slight irregularities and a softer drape. Test the zari by checking for a warm, slightly muted shine, since bright silver-white plastic gleam suggests a synthetic thread. Ask for a handloom or silk mark label and keep the receipt. For care, dry clean only, fold with muslin between the folds, refold along new lines every few months, and store away from damp and perfume.

Where to look

• Banarasi Katan brocade: Pure silk warp and weft with all-over zari jaal, the classic bridal saree of Varanasi.
• Banarasi Kadhua: Motifs woven one at a time with separate shuttles, giving a sharply defined raised pattern.
• Banarasi Shikargah: A design showing hunting scenes with animals, trees and riders.
• Kanchipuram brocade: Heavy silk from Tamil Nadu with zari motifs and contrast borders.
• Paithani brocade: Maharashtra silk with peacocks and lotuses woven in gold.
• Himroo: A cotton and silk brocade historically woven in Aurangabad.
• Kinkhab: The old term for heavy gold brocade used in royal wear.

Care

• Dry clean only and avoid wetting the zari.
• Wrap in soft muslin, not plastic, and refold every few months along different lines.
• Keep away from perfume, damp and direct sunlight.

Sources and further reading

• Brocade on Wikipedia
• Banarasi sari, Wikipedia