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Zardozi

Heavy metal-thread embroidery, in which gold or silver wire is couched on to cloth with small stitches.

A swatch drawn for this page, not a picture of Zardozi.

Also: zardosi, zari work

Zardozi comes from Persian zar, gold, and dozi, embroidery. Metal thread, wire, spangles and sometimes pearls and beads are laid on cloth and stitched down with a fine thread, a method called couching. The work is done on a frame, and it is often raised and stiff, so it is used for bridal sarees, lehengas, borders and court dress. It is linked with the Mughal courts, and Lucknow, Agra, Delhi and Bhopal are among the places known for it. Real gold and silver wire has mostly given way to plated copper and polyester threads.

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Every Monday: seven sarees you may not know, what is being worn this week, and one drape explained step by step.