Dance and stage

Bharatanatyam

Bharatanatyam costume is usually a stitched saree made from a pure silk, often Kanchipuram, with a bright contrasting border. The saree is cut and sewn into a pleated front, called the fan, which opens as the dancer bends her knees, and a pallu or separate cloth is draped over the blouse. Common colours are red, green, blue and magenta with gold zari, so that the border shows from the audience. A dancer typically wears a waist belt, a hair ornament and temple jewellery. Some costumes are made from a dance saree set, with matching pieces cut for the purpose.

Kathak, Odissi and Mohiniyattam

Kathak dancers may wear a saree, a lehenga or an anarkali, depending on the style, and the saree is usually draped in a way that allows spins. Odissi costume uses a stitched Sambalpuri or Pattasaree with a bold border, worn with a silver headpiece and ornaments, and the pleats are arranged to fan out at the front. Mohiniyattam is danced in the cream and gold kasavu saree with a fan pleat in front and jasmine in the hair. Kuchipudi, Kathakali and other forms have their own dress, and some use sarees in a particular way.

Stage drapes and adaptation

For the stage, sarees are often cut and pre-pleated, so that the drape does not shift as the dancer moves. The nine yard or kachche style, in which the cloth is passed between the legs, is used for folk and some classical forms, because it gives more freedom than a regular Nivi. Some performers sew the pleats in place, and others pin the saree on the day. Theatre and film costume uses the saree to suggest character, region and period, and costume designers research the weave and the drape for each story.

Buying and caring for stage sarees

A dance saree is a working garment and has to withstand sweat, repeated wear and travelling. Many dancers buy from specialist tailors or shops that sell dance costume sets, which include the stitched saree, the fan and the belt. Silk and cotton silk are common. Wash and dry clean as the maker advises, and hang the costume to dry after each performance, because damp silk can stain and sour. Keep a spare set for travel, and check the stitching and hooks before every show.

Worth knowing

• Bharatanatyam costume: The stitched silk saree with a pleated fan in front.
• Odissi costume: A stitched saree with a bold border and silver ornaments.
• Mohiniyattam costume: The cream and gold kasavu saree of Kerala.
• Kachche drape: The nine yard saree passed between the legs for freedom of movement.
• Kuchipudi costume: A saree with a fan pleat, worn with ornaments of light wood or gold.

Good to know

• Hang the costume to dry after each performance, never fold it damp.
• Check stitching and hooks before every show.
• Dry clean silk costumes, and keep a spare set for travel.

Sources and further reading

• Bharatanatyam on Wikipedia
• Mohiniyattam, Wikipedia
• Odissi, Wikipedia