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Selvedge

The firm edge of a woven cloth, made by the weft turning back at the side so that it cannot fray.

vertical: warp, across: weft
Plain weave: the weft thread goes over one warp thread and under the next, then the reverse on the next row.

Also: selvage, self-edge

On a loom the weft thread travels from one side to the other and turns back at the edge. That turn locks the outermost warp threads and forms a finished edge that does not unravel. This self-finished edge is the selvedge. In a saree the selvedges run along the two long sides, and the border is woven next to them. A good selvedge is straight and even, and it tells a buyer how carefully the cloth was woven. Cloth cut from a wider piece has no selvedge on the cut sides and must be hemmed.

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The weekly drape

Every Monday: seven sarees you may not know, what is being worn this week, and one drape explained step by step.