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EveryPallu

Other lands

The Balinese kamben

The wrapped cloth of Bali, worn with a sash and a fitted kebaya to the temple, one of the clearest everyday wraps of Southeast Asia.

On Bali, women wear a wrapped cloth called the kamben, with a fitted kebaya blouse and a sash tied at the waist, when they go to temple or take part in ceremonies. It is not a saree but a wrapped dress of a related kind, and it is dress for prayer. A sash and a wrap are also lent to visitors at many temples.

Wrapped step by step

Each drawing shows the cloth so far, with the newest step outlined in gold. The figure is a front view; the wearer's left is on your right.

  1. Step 1 Put on the kebaya blouse.
  2. Step 2 Wrap the kamben round the hips and legs to the ankle.
  3. Step 3 Tuck the free end of the cloth at the waist.
  4. Step 4 Tie the sash, the umpal or selendang, round the waist over the wrap.
  5. Step 5 Settle the hem to the ankle so it falls straight.
  6. Finished The Balinese kamben, seen from the front.

Where it comes from

Bali is mostly Hindu, unlike most of Indonesia, and its dress for ritual is fixed by custom. The kamben is a wrapped cloth, the sash is the umpal or selendang, and the kebaya is the blouse. Together they form the standard dress for temple visits. The word kamben is Balinese, and wrapped cloth of this kind is found throughout the Indonesian islands. The style grew up in local weaving and in the ceremony of village temples. Dress rules at temples are now written on signs for visitors, and the habit is passed on from mothers to daughters.

How it looks

The kamben is wrapped tightly round the hips and legs to the ankle and the free end is tucked in at the waist. A sash is then tied over it at the waist, and the kebaya is worn above. Handwoven cloths such as songket and endek, a weft ikat of Bali, are used for special days. The kamben falls to the ankle in a smooth column, so the steps are short and measured, which suits the slow pace of a procession. The sash is usually a plain, narrow cloth in a bright colour, tied in a bow or a knot at the front or side. The kebaya above is fitted at the waist and often has lace.

Who wears it and when

Women wear it at temples, in processions, at tooth-filing and wedding rites, and at dance performances. Visitors who enter temples are usually asked to wear a sash and a wrap, and shops and temples may lend them. Daily dress is often modern, but at ceremonial times the dress is expected. Girls learn to tie the sash early. Practices differ between villages. Offerings are carried on the head, so the dress needs to be steady and easy to move in. This guide gives the general form, and a maker, dresser or family may do it a little differently.

Good to know

  • Visitors to temples are expected to wear a sash and a wrap.

Sarees worn this way

More on EveryPallu

Sources and further reading

About this page

Original text and drawings by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. The drawings are simplified diagrams of the order of wrapping, not a lesson: how a drape is worn differs from family to family. If we have something wrong, tell us.

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

The weekly drape

Every Monday: seven sarees you may not know, what is being worn this week, and one drape explained step by step.