The sarees of Bishnupur

What is woven here

A Baluchari saree has a broad pallu filled with a scene in extra-weft threads, usually in a contrasting colour to the silk body. Around it runs a border of small motifs, and the body carries a scatter of butis. Swarnachari is a related type in which gold zari is used for the pattern. The weave is built row by row, and a pallu with figures may take weeks to make.

The craft and its people

Baluchari moved to Bishnupur from the village of Baluchar in the nineteenth century, and later weavers revived it when the tradition was in decline. Weaving is done by families in the town on large looms, with a helper who lifts the pattern threads. The Baluchari sari of Bishnupur is protected as a Geographical Indication.

Seeing it

The terracotta temples, among them the Rasmancha and the Shyamrai temple, are the town's main monuments, and the Bishnupur Mela is held each December. Weavers' workshops and cooperative shops sell Baluchari and ask visitors to look at the pallu's figures. Bishnupur also makes conch-shell and dokra metal crafts, which sit well in the same trip.

A trail idea for Bishnupur

1. Rasmancha See the town's best known terracotta temple, with panels that match the scenes woven on the sarees.
2. A Baluchari workshop Watch the jacquard and extra-weft work, and ask to see a pallu with figures on the loom.
3. Bishnupur Mela If you visit in December, see the town's fair with crafts and music in the open.
4. Dokra and shell craft workshops Add the other crafts of the town for a second half-day.