Ikat

What it is

In ikat, a resist dye is applied to the yarn rather than the finished cloth. Sections of warp, weft or both are bound tightly with thread so the dye cannot reach them, then the bundles are dyed, retied and dyed again for more colours. When the threads are laid on the loom in careful order, the dyed zones form the design. Single ikat has the pattern in one set of threads, while double ikat, which is much harder, has it in both. The pattern edges are always a little feathery because threads shift as they are woven, and this soft edge is how experts tell it from a print.

How it is made, step by step

The yarn, usually cotton or silk, is first stretched on a wooden frame, and a designer marks the pattern with chalk or ink. Skilled workers then tie the marked parts with tight bands of rubber strips or cotton thread, so those parts will stay undyed. The yarn is dipped in dye, with natural indigo, lac or madder in older practice and chemical dyes today, then untied and retied for a second colour. After drying, the threads are sorted and set up on a warping frame and loom. Weavers adjust each weft by hand so the pattern lines up. In Odisha, a whole family may share the tying, dyeing and weaving.

The motifs and looks it is known for

Pochampally ikat is known for sharp geometric shapes such as diamonds, zigzags, stepped squares and stripes, with the design fading slightly at the edges. Sambalpuri and Bomkai styles from Odisha include temple towers, shankh, chakra and flowers, and the classic Odisha ikat uses a woven border in a contrasting colour. The patola of Patan in Gujarat is double ikat with elephants, parrots, flowers and lattice designs in bright colours. The Telia Rumal of Andhra Pradesh uses red, black and white in square patterns. Overall the look is crisp from afar and softly wavering close up.

Where it is made

In Telangana, the villages around Pochampally and Puttapaka in Nalgonda district weave ikat in cotton and silk, and Puttapaka makes a variant called Teliya rumal. In Odisha the main centres are Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur, Berhampur and Nuapatna, where weavers from the Bhulia and Meher communities have long woven ikat, and Cuttack and Barpali also work in related styles. Patan in Gujarat is the home of the double ikat patola, and was historically woven by the Salvi family community. Outside India, ikat is also made in Indonesia, Uzbekistan and elsewhere, and Sri Lanka has some related practice. In Andhra Pradesh, Chirala and Srikakulam also have ikat traditions.

History in brief

Ikat appears in many parts of the world, and the technique was in use in India for a very long time, though exact beginnings are uncertain. Patola from Gujarat travelled by sea to Southeast Asia, where it was prized and inspired local ikat designs, and the cloth reached courts as a status item. Odisha ikat is tied to temple culture, and the patterns on Jagannath temple cloth are an example. The Pochampally cluster grew in the twentieth century with encouragement from the Bhoodan movement and cooperative societies, and ikat has since become popular in cotton for everyday and formal wear. Pochampally ikat and Patan patola both hold Geographical Indication status.

Buying and caring for it

Examine the pattern edge. In real ikat the line between colours is a little soft and uneven, and the pattern appears on both faces of the cloth. Printed imitations have crisp edges and look paler or blank on the back. Double ikat pieces, like patola, show the same design on both sides and are priced very high because a single saree can take months. Ask for a handloom mark or a weaver society tag. Wash cotton ikat separately in cool water with mild soap since some dyes may bleed in the first washes, dry in the shade, and dry clean silk. Do not soak for long.

Where to look

• Pochampally ikat: Telangana cotton and silk with bold geometric ikat patterns.
• Sambalpuri ikat: Odisha handloom saree with temple, shankh and chakra motifs.
• Bomkai: Odisha saree from Ganjam, with embroidered-look woven motifs on a plain body.
• Patan patola: Gujarat double ikat silk, among the most expensive handwoven sarees.
• Telia Rumal: Red, black and white ikat from Puttapaka and Chirala in Andhra and Telangana.
• Ikkat Pata: Odisha silk ikat made in Nuapatna and Sonepur.
• Khandua: Odisha silk ikat linked to Jagannath temple cloth.

Care

• Wash cotton ikat separately in cool water and dry in the shade.
• Dry clean silk and double ikat pieces.
• Do not soak for long, since dyes can bleed in the first washes.

Sources and further reading

• Ikat on Wikipedia
• Pochampally Ikat, Wikipedia
• Patan patola, Wikipedia