Shaphee Lanphee

What is Shaphee Lanphee?

Shaphee Lanphee is a traditional hand-woven and hand-embroidered textile from Manipur. Created largely by Meitei craftswomen, the cloth measures roughly two and a quarter metres in length and over a metre in width. It features a dark black ground paired with red borders. Artisans embroider intricate symbols across the surface using needles and cotton yarn without a frame. Historically gifted as a token of high distinction called Mana Phee, the fabric weighs around 1.8 kilograms. It carries deep cultural and symbolic meaning, showing figures of animals, weapons, and heavenly bodies arranged across the woven field.

Where does Shaphee Lanphee come from?

According to historical records like the Loiyumba Silyen manuscript, King Loiyumba assigned the exclusive weaving of this textile to the Khoisnam clan between 1074 and 1122 CE. Royal tradition held that after seeing a Khoisnam horseman in this cloth, the ruler began offering it to celebrate courageous Naga leaders and victorious warriors. The motifs also draw upon older lore concerning King Naothingkhong from the seventh and eighth centuries. In the late twentieth century, weavers Maisnam Lalini Devi, Maisnam Anita, and Keinahanbi led efforts to revive the craft, winning state and national honours for their work.

How is Shaphee Lanphee made?

Weavers craft Shaphee Lanphee on loin looms and frame looms. The threads originate from cotton balls called Lashing, mulberry cocoons named Kabrang, or bark extracted from the Santhak tree. After spinning, makers dye the yarn using regional barks and plants. The dyed yarn receives rice starch for sizing, gets stretched with bamboo rods, and is wound onto bobbins. To construct the warp and weft, weavers primarily work with cotton counts, sometimes blending acrylic or silk yarns. Once the base cloth is off the loom, artisans execute the embroidery freehand with cotton needlework.

Colours, motifs and borders

The cloth displays an array of symbolic patterns set on black cloth with red margins and white border bands. Central red sections represent the sun, while white strips evoke the cosmos. Needlework patterns follow a strict sequence, featuring celestial symbols like the moon, sun, and stars. Animal figures include elephants, horses, peacocks, fish, and buffalo horns. Royal and martial items, such as spears and magical thrones, appear alongside these beasts, linking ancient rulers to the cosmic realm.

How Shaphee Lanphee is worn

Shaphee Lanphee is typically worn as a distinguished shawl or mantle draped over the upper body. Measuring between 225 and 230 centimetres long and 110 to 132 centimetres wide, its substantial weight gives it a structured drape. The prominent borders and celestial motifs are displayed visibly when wrapped around the shoulders.

When Shaphee Lanphee is worn

In past centuries, Manipuri kings bestowed this mantle as an award of valor, known as Mana Phee, upon soldiers returning from triumphant campaigns. Rulers also presented it to respected community leaders, including Meitei, Rongmei, and Tangkhul chiefs. Today, the textile retains deep sacred significance and is treasured for ceremonial and cultural occasions across the state.

Styles of Shaphee Lanphee

While traditional pieces were exclusively woven by the Khoisnam family, contemporary production occurs across various centers in Manipur. Modern base fabrics may integrate cotton with acrylic or silk threads alongside traditional tree-bark and mulberry fibres. Though sizing and loom types vary between frame and loin setups, authentic pieces retain hand-guided needle embroidery without using stitching frames.

What Shaphee Lanphee means

Shaphee Lanphee represents historic unity and royal commendation across the communities of Manipur. It secured Geographical Indication protection under Class 25 in December 2011 alongside other regional weaves. To preserve quality and authenticity, an inspection committee composed of government representatives, artisan societies, and master craftspeople oversees production across Manipur.

Questions people ask about Shaphee Lanphee

Good reading and sources

• Shaphee lanphee on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• Wikidata recordOpen data