Heirloom sarees

What makes an heirloom

A saree becomes an heirloom when it is kept, worn on important days and handed down, and some are made with that in mind. Heavy silks such as Kanchipuram, Banarasi, Paithani and Patola are often the choice, because the cloth and the zari last for decades. The value is as much in the memory as in the weave: a saree worn by a grandmother at her wedding may be kept for the granddaughter, even if it is worn rarely. Families often remember who gave it, who wore it and on what occasion.

Real zari and its value

Old sarees were woven with zari made of silver thread, often gilded with gold, and some are valued today for the metal itself. A saree with real zari can be melted down or its zari recovered by a specialist, and in the past families sometimes did so when they needed money or wanted to remake the cloth. Modern zari is mostly copper with a coating of silver and gold, or synthetic metallic thread. Ask the seller about the zari and look for a hallmark or certificate where one is offered, as these can help.

Passing it on and reweaving it

In many families the saree is passed on at the daughter's wedding or on a birthday, with a story attached. Where the border has worn out, a skilled weaver may rewoven or replace it, and in Kanchipuram and Banaras, there are craftsmen who repair old brocades. Some families cut an old pallu and join it to a new body. Others keep the old piece whole, framed or folded in muslin. Heirlooms may be altered into blouses, dupattas, cushion covers or wall hangings, though many people prefer to keep the saree intact.

Keeping an heirloom safe

Fold the saree in an acid-free cloth or muslin and change the folds each year so the zari does not break at the crease. Keep it away from damp, direct light and moths, and air it on a dry day in shade. Do not wash silk with real zari at home, and do not store it in plastic. Place neem leaves or a cedar block nearby. Photograph it, note who wore it and when, and attach the story to the cloth. Where the saree is fragile, consult a textile conservator before you wear it again.

Worth knowing

• Kanchipuram silk: A durable silk saree often kept for generations.
• Paithani: A hand-woven silk of Maharashtra, treasured as an heirloom.
• Patola: A double ikat silk of Patan, so labour-intensive that it is kept for life.
• Benarasi brocade: A silk with gold and silver zari, often handed down.
• Real zari: Silver and gold thread whose value can last for decades.

Good to know

• Refold in muslin each year along different lines to protect the zari.
• Keep away from damp, direct sun, perfume and moths.
• Ask a conservator before cleaning or repairing a fragile piece.

Sources and further reading

• Zari on Wikipedia
• Patola, Wikipedia