Tussar sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Tussar silk is made by wild or semi-wild silkworms of the Antheraea family, which live on trees such as arjun and asan in the forests of central and eastern India. Because the worms are not raised on a single cultivated leaf, their cocoons vary in size and colour, and the silk has a natural tan, honey or gold tone. Much of the cocoon collection and rearing is done by tribal and forest communities in Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Madhya Pradesh and Bihar. This gives tussar a close link with forest livelihoods, and the cloth is often described as a silk of the forest.

How the cloth is made

Tussar cocoons are harder and stickier than mulberry cocoons, so they are soaked and boiled to loosen the gum before the thread is drawn out. Much of the yarn is reeled by hand on the thigh or on a simple device, which leaves a slightly uneven, textured thread. The yarn is dyed or left in its natural shade and woven on handlooms, often with a plain body and a contrast border. Weavers also use tussar for printing, embroidery and painted designs, and Bhagalpur is known for tussar combined with cotton, while Chhattisgarh weavers produce Kosa, a closely related tussar silk with a dense, sturdy feel.

How it feels and falls

Tussar has a dry, slightly rough hand compared with mulberry silk, and its glow is soft and matte rather than glassy. It is cool on the skin and fairly light, but it has more body and structure than smooth silks, so it holds pleats crisply and stands out a little at the hem. The natural gold colour looks warm against deep reds, greens and blues, and plain tussar takes embroidery, block printing and Madhubani painting beautifully. It creases more easily than heavier silks, and the fabric may feel coarse at first, but it softens with wear and washing, and many wearers value this character.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Bhagalpur in Bihar is the best-known centre, often called the silk city of India, and it produces tussar sarees and dress material. Chhattisgarh has Champa and Raigarh, where Kosa silk is woven, and Jharkhand has Chaibasa and other tribal belts. Odisha weaves tussar with ikat patterns in places such as Sambalpur and Bargarh, and West Bengal has centres in Bankura and Birbhum that work with tussar and dye it. Tasar is also found in Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. Silk of this kind is made in parts of Nepal and Sri Lanka as well, but India is the main producer.

How to tell the real thing

Real tussar has a slightly irregular surface with a visible grain, and its colour is warm and uneven, not flat and bright. It should feel dry and crisp, not slippery like polyester. Be wary of dyed viscose or art silk sold as tussar, which often looks too even and shiny. Ask whether the yarn is reeled tussar or spun waste silk, since spun yarn is cheaper and fuzzier. Look for a Silk Mark or a Tussar silk label from a cooperative or the Central Silk Board, and examine the pallu and border for hand-finished details. A fair price for a pure handloom piece should reflect the labour involved.

Famous sarees and centres

• Bhagalpuri tussar: Light wild silk from the Bihar silk town, often plain or printed.
• Kosa silk: Dense, sturdy tussar silk from Champa and Korba in Chhattisgarh.
• Tussar Ghicha: A rougher tussar with uneven yarn, valued for its rustic look.
• Tussar with Madhubani: Plain tussar painted by hand in the Mithila style of Bihar.
• Odisha tussar ikat: Tussar tied and dyed in the ikat manner in Odisha.
• Bankura tussar: Tussar from Bengal, often with block prints and Baluchari-style borders.
• Champa tussar: Tussar sarees from Champa, a major Chhattisgarh silk centre.

Care

• Dry clean for the first washes, or hand wash gently in cold water with mild soap.
• Avoid wringing and do not soak for long, as the dye may bleed.
• Iron on the reverse at a medium setting while slightly damp.
• Store in a cotton or muslin cover and refold now and then.

Sources and further reading

• Tussar silk on Wikipedia
• Wild silk (Wikipedia)