Organza sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Organza is a plain-weave fabric made from fine, hard-twisted filament yarns and then finished so that it stays stiff and translucent. Silk organza, the original form, has a pearly shine and a dry, papery feel. Polyester and nylon organza are cheaper and are sold in very large volume in India. Organza has been used for a long time in bridal wear and veils, and it entered the saree wardrobe more recently, especially in the south and in designer wear, because its stiffness gives the saree a crisp, sculpted fall.

How the cloth is made

Organza uses fine filament yarns, which are tightly twisted and woven in a close plain weave. For silk organza the gum is partly left in the thread, which is what gives it body and crispness. Synthetic organza gets its stiffness from the properties of the yarn and from heat setting. After weaving, the cloth may be dyed, printed with flowers or stripes, or embroidered. Banarasi weavers weave organza with zari, creating a light, shimmering saree called Kora organza or Banarasi kora, and there are also cut-work and appliqué finishes.

How it feels and falls

Organza is light but not floppy. It is crisp, a little scratchy against bare skin, and it holds pleats and a wide pallu that spreads outward. It has a glassy translucence and picks up light well, so it looks bright and fresh, especially in pastel and jewel colours. Because it is stiff, it creates volume rather than clinging, and it does not suit everyone who prefers a soft, flowing drape. It wrinkles easily and the creases can be hard to remove, and silk organza is delicate and may snag. A good petticoat and a soft lining at the shoulder help it sit comfortably.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Varanasi is the best-known centre for silk and Kora organza sarees, often with floral zari work. Surat and other Gujarat towns produce large amounts of synthetic organza, and finishing and embroidery take place in Surat, Mumbai, Delhi, Hyderabad and Chennai. Tamil Nadu weavers work with organza and silk blends, and Bengal embroiderers decorate it with floral work. Pakistan and Bangladesh use organza for wedding and party wear, and Indian-style organza sarees are also popular in Sri Lanka and Nepal, particularly for festive and formal occasions.

How to tell the real thing

Pure silk organza feels slightly warm and soft despite its crispness, and the shine is pearly. Polyester organza feels harder and glassier, often with a brighter shine. Look at a loose thread and burn it carefully: silk leaves a soft ash and smells like burnt hair, while polyester forms a hard bead. Be careful with the label, because some sarees sold as Banarasi organza are made on powerlooms in blended or synthetic yarn. Ask whether zari is real or metallic polyester, and check that embroidery is firm, with no loose threads on the back, as organza shows every flaw.

Famous sarees and centres

• Kora organza: Light Banarasi organza woven with floral zari work.
• Banarasi organza: Varanasi sarees that pair a sheer organza body with zari borders.
• Embroidered organza: Organza with thread, sequin or zardozi embroidery.
• Floral organza: Pastel sarees printed or appliqued with large flowers.
• Organza with cutwork: Cut-edge and appliqué work on a crisp organza body.
• Silk organza: The original and finer organza, with a pearly shine.

Care

• Dry clean embroidered or silk organza.
• Avoid folding on the same line each time, as organza creases stay in the cloth.
• Iron on a low setting from the reverse, using a pressing cloth.
• Store hanging or loosely rolled in a soft cloth bag.

Sources and further reading

• Organza on Wikipedia
• Varanasi (Wikipedia)