Net sarees
An open mesh, worked with embroidery, sequins or appliqué.
Net is an open mesh cloth, made by looping or twisting threads to leave small holes. Net sarees are light, see-through and made to carry embroidery, sequins and appliqué for weddings and parties.
What it is and where it comes from
Net is a fabric with a regular pattern of small holes, formed by knotting, knitting or twisting threads rather than weaving them in a simple over-and-under plain weave. Hand-knotted net has a long history in many countries, and the machine-made version came along with the lace industry in Europe. In saree use, net is most often made of nylon or polyester, though cotton and silk nets exist. The cloth is almost never worn plain. It is a base for decoration, and the mesh gives a light, transparent look that frames embroidery well.
How the cloth is made
Most saree net is made on machines that twist or loop threads into a mesh, and in India the main production is in synthetic yarns. The plain net is then dyed and embellished with thread embroidery, sequins, beads, mirror work, stone and zari. Much of the embellishment is done by hand or by computerised embroidery machines in workshops in Surat, Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata and Lucknow. Some designers layer net over silk or satin, or use it for the pallu and border only, with a plainer body. Heavy embroidery on net needs a firm backing or a careful finish to avoid distorting the mesh.
How it feels and falls
Net feels slightly stiff and scratchy, especially when it is embroidered, and it is translucent, so it is nearly always worn over a petticoat or a lining. It has more body than chiffon and holds pleats reasonably well, but heavily embellished net can be heavy and can pull at the shoulder. The softer nets, such as fine cotton or soft nylon, drape more gently and are easier to wear for long hours. Net does not breathe well when made of synthetic yarns, and the mesh can catch on jewellery, rings and rough surfaces, so careful handling is wise.
Where in India and South Asia it is woven
Surat is a major base for the production and embroidery of net sarees, and embellishment is also done in Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Jaipur and Lucknow. Lucknow's chikankari artisans sometimes work on net, and Rajasthan's gota and zari workers add borders. Cotton net and fine mesh cloths are also made in parts of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, where a related light open weave is used for veils and head cloths. Pakistan and Bangladesh also make and import net and embroidered mesh for bridal and festive wear, and the style is common in Sri Lanka and Nepal.
How to tell the real thing
Check the mesh first. It should be even, with no tears, snags or crooked rows, and the holes should be the same size throughout. Look at the embroidery from the back, where thread ends should be tidy and secured. Hand work often shows tiny variations, while machine work is uniform, and both are valid if described honestly. Ask what the yarn is, since a net sold as silk net may be synthetic. Hold the cloth up to the light and check it for thin spots. Heavy sequins on a thin net can drop off, so test a few by tugging gently, and ask whether the saree has a lining or a matching petticoat piece.
Famous sarees and centres
- Embroidered net: Net with thread, sequin and bead work, the usual festive form.
- Net with zardozi: Heavy metal-thread work on a net base, for weddings.
- Net with chikankari: Lucknow-style white thread embroidery on a fine net.
- Net with gota patti: Rajasthan's gold ribbon appliqué on a net body.
- Cotton net: A softer, more breathable net used for lighter sarees and dupattas.
- Lace-bordered net: Net with lace borders, used for evening drapes.
Care
- Dry clean embroidered net, as washing can distort the mesh and the work.
- Fold with tissue between layers and avoid hooks or rough surfaces.
- Do not hang it by the shoulder, as the weight of the embroidery can stretch the net.
- Iron only on the lowest setting and on the reverse, or avoid ironing and steam gently.
Sources and further reading
Original text by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. If we have something wrong, tell us.
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