Muga sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Muga silk comes from the semi-wild silkworm Antheraea assamensis, which feeds on the leaves of the som and soalu trees in the Brahmaputra valley. The thread has a natural pale gold colour that dyes can hardly change, and it is produced in meaningful quantity only in Assam. The silk has long been linked with Assamese royalty and ritual, and it is woven into the mekhela chador, the two-piece dress of the state, as well as into sarees. Muga rearing is a household craft in many villages, and the Government of India has recognised the silk with a geographical indication tag.

How the cloth is made

The cocoons are collected, boiled in an alkaline solution made with ash or soda, and reeled by hand into a strong, even thread. Because the silk resists dye, much of it is left in its natural gold, though it can take a few subdued colours. Weavers, who are most often women working at home on throw-shuttle or fly-shuttle looms, add motifs of flowers, birds, the kingkhap pattern and the jaapi hat using extra weft threads. A fine muga saree can take weeks to finish. Villages around Sualkuchi, near Guwahati, are known for weaving it at scale, though weaving also happens in many households across the state.

How it feels and falls

Muga feels firm and smooth, with a warm, glowing sheen that has a depth different from the whiter shine of mulberry silk. It is stronger than most silks and holds its shape well, so the cloth falls in clean, slightly crisp folds. New muga can feel a little stiff, but with each wash it becomes softer and shinier, and good pieces are said to last for decades and even to be passed down. The colour deepens gradually and does not fade like many dyed silks. It suits the cool, damp climate of Assam and works well in the warmer months too if the weave is light.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Assam is the home of muga, and the main weaving belts lie in Sualkuchi in Kamrup district, the Lakhimpur and Dibrugarh districts, Jorhat, Sivasagar and Golaghat. Sualkuchi is often called the Manchester of Assam, and its weavers also make paat and eri silk. Muga is also woven at a smaller scale in other north-eastern areas, but outside India there is no significant production. Assamese weavers carry the tradition with them, and you will find muga mekhela chadors worn at Bihu and at weddings wherever Assamese communities have settled.

How to tell the real thing

True muga has a natural golden colour that looks warm rather than yellow-bright. The surface should be smooth with a gentle, lasting sheen, and the colour should not rub off. Beware of cloth that is simply dyed gold or mixed with polyester. Look for the geographical indication logo and the Silk Mark, and ask whether the weaver or the cooperative is named. A real muga saree is not cheap, as the supply of cocoons is limited. If the price is far lower than comparable pieces, the yarn may be a blend, or spun from waste, or even a dyed tussar or art silk.

Famous sarees and centres

• Muga mekhela chador: The traditional two-piece Assamese dress woven in muga.
• Sualkuchi muga: Muga cloth from the main silk-weaving town of Assam.
• Kingkhap muga: Muga with dense, brocade-like woven motifs once worn by nobility.
• Muga with kolka: Muga with mango-shaped paisley motifs in the border.
• Muga and paat: Combinations of golden muga with white paat silk for Bihu and weddings.
• Jaapi motif muga: Muga woven with the traditional Assamese hat motif.

Care

• Hand wash gently or dry clean, using mild soap and cold water.
• Do not use bleach or harsh detergent, and rinse thoroughly.
• Dry in shade and iron on the reverse at a low to medium heat.
• Fold with muslin between layers and keep away from damp.

Sources and further reading

• Muga silk on Wikipedia
• Sualkuchi (Wikipedia)