Georgette sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Georgette is defined by its weave and yarn rather than its fibre. It is a plain weave made from yarns twisted so tightly that they kink and spring, giving the cloth a dull, pebbled surface and a light, airy character. The name is usually traced to the French dressmaker Georgette de la Plante, although the story is often retold with some uncertainty. Georgette was first made in silk, and silk georgette is still sold. Today the cheaper, more common forms are polyester georgette and viscose georgette, and these are widely worn across the subcontinent.

How the cloth is made

The yarns used in georgette have a very high twist, and they are laid in both warp and weft, usually with alternating threads of S-twist and Z-twist. This creates the crinkle that lets the cloth recover and stay light. It is woven on powerlooms in great volume, and Surat in Gujarat is the largest centre for synthetic georgette in India. After weaving, the cloth is dyed, printed, or embellished with embroidery, sequins, stone work or lace. Silk georgette is woven in smaller quantities and may be dyed in vivid shades or block printed by hand.

How it feels and falls

Georgette is airy, soft and slightly rough, with a matte surface and a grainy hand. It falls in loose, floating folds and does not cling, so it is flattering and easy to drape. Because it is sheer and somewhat slippery, many wearers use a petticoat that grips well and a pin or two to hold the pleats. It holds embroidery and beading well, but heavy work on a light georgette base can stress the cloth. Polyester georgette does not breathe as well as cotton or silk, so it can feel warm in humid weather, though it dries fast and does not crease much.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Surat in Gujarat is the great hub for georgette sarees, along with other Gujarat towns, Ichalkaranji and Bhiwandi in Maharashtra, and Tamil Nadu's Salem and Erode in some synthetic ranges. Varanasi and Kolkata also finish and embellish georgette. Embroidered and printed georgette sarees are made in Hyderabad, Bengaluru and Delhi. Pakistan and Bangladesh weave and import large amounts of georgette for local wear, and Sri Lanka and Nepal sell it widely too. Silk georgette is worked in Bengal and Karnataka, among other places, for finer pieces.

How to tell the real thing

First decide whether you want silk, polyester or viscose georgette, and check the label. Silk georgette feels cool and soft and has a quiet shine, while polyester has a sharper, more uniform glow and does not absorb water. A flame test on a loose thread tells you more: silk smells of burnt hair, viscose burns like paper, and polyester melts and smells chemical. Look at the crinkle, which should be even and fine. Check the border and embroidery for loose threads, and hold the saree to the light to see how sheer it is. A very cheap saree labelled as silk georgette is probably not silk.

Famous sarees and centres

• Surat georgette: Printed and embroidered synthetic georgette from Surat's mills.
• Pure silk georgette: A fine, light silk version with a soft, quiet glow.
• Bandhani georgette: Georgette with tie-dye dots from Gujarat and Rajasthan.
• Georgette with chikankari: Lucknow-style white thread embroidery on a sheer georgette ground.
• Sequin georgette: Party sarees with sequin and beadwork, popular for evening wear.
• Hand-painted georgette: Georgette painted by hand in floral and abstract designs.

Care

• Dry clean embroidered and silk georgette sarees.
• Plain polyester georgette can be hand washed in cool water with mild soap.
• Do not wring, and hang to dry in shade.
• Iron on a low setting, with a cloth between the iron and any embroidery.

Sources and further reading

• Georgette (fabric) on Wikipedia
• Surat (Wikipedia)