Eri sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Eri silk comes from the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini, which feeds mostly on castor leaves. Unlike mulberry silk, the cocoons are open at one end, and the moth is allowed to emerge before the cocoon is collected. This is why eri is called peace silk, and why it appeals to people who avoid harming insects. The silk is mainly produced in Assam, Meghalaya and other north-eastern states, and some also in Jharkhand and West Bengal. Because the cocoon is opened, the filament is broken, so eri is spun like cotton or wool rather than reeled as a continuous thread.

How the cloth is made

The empty cocoons are boiled in a mild alkaline liquid, then opened out into flat mats, stretched and spun into yarn on a spindle or a small spinning wheel. This spun yarn is thick, fluffy and uneven, so the cloth has a texture closer to wool or thick cotton than to smooth silk. It is woven on handlooms, often by women in the household, and the cloth may be left in its natural cream and off-white colour, or dyed in earthy and bright tones. Many eri cloths are decorated with simple bands, checks and traditional Assamese or tribal motifs, and some are mixed with muga or cotton.

How it feels and falls

Eri is soft, warm and slightly fuzzy, with a matte finish and almost no shine. It traps air well, so it is warmer than other silks, which makes it well suited to the cool hill climate where it is made, and good for winter sarees and wraps. The cloth has some body and a casual drape, and it is much more durable than its soft look suggests. It tends to crease and may pill slightly with rough use, but its relaxed look is part of its appeal. It is also known to soften with every wash and to last for many years if looked after.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Assam is the centre of eri weaving, especially around Sualkuchi, Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Nalbari and Goalpara, and the cloth is called endi or endi chadar locally. Meghalaya's Ri-Bhoi district is known for eri, and Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh and Mizoram all make eri cloth in their own styles. Outside the north-east, Jharkhand and parts of West Bengal produce some eri. Beyond India, eri silk is known in Bhutan and Nepal, but Assam remains the heartland. Eri weaving is also linked with Bodo and Mising communities, who use it for everyday dress.

How to tell the real thing

Real eri has a spun, slightly fluffy texture with visible thicker and thinner slubs, and it feels warm to the hand. It should not be slick or shiny. If the cloth looks smooth, glossy and evenly coloured, it may be a blend with polyester or viscose. Ask whether the cloth is pure eri or mixed with cotton, wool or muga, since mixes are common and perfectly valid if they are described honestly. A Silk Mark, a handloom mark, or purchase from a known Assam cooperative gives more confidence, and the price should reflect hand-spinning and hand-weaving.

Famous sarees and centres

• Endi chadar: A warm eri wrap or shawl, widely used in Assam in winter.
• Eri mekhela chador: The Assamese two-piece dress woven in eri, plain or with motifs.
• Eri and muga mix: Cloth that combines eri warm body with golden muga threads.
• Sualkuchi eri: Eri cloth from Assam's major weaving town.
• Meghalaya eri: Eri woven by Khasi and Garo communities, often in natural cream tones.
• Eri stole: Light eri stoles and scarves woven in Assam and Meghalaya.

Care

• Hand wash in cool water with a mild soap and do not wring hard.
• Dry flat or in shade, as sun can fade the dyes.
• Iron on the reverse at a low to medium heat.
• Store with neem leaves or cedar in a cotton bag to keep moths away.

Sources and further reading

• Eri silk on Wikipedia
• Central Silk Board, India