Crepe sarees

What it is and where it comes from

Crepe is a family of fabrics with a rough, grainy, crinkled surface. The effect comes from yarns that are twisted very tightly, which then spring back and pucker the cloth after weaving. Crepe may be made in silk, wool, cotton, viscose or polyester, so it is a texture rather than one fibre. In India the crepe silk of Mysuru in Karnataka is famous, and polyester crepe, often called French crepe, American crepe or Japanese crepe in the trade, is sold in huge numbers. The names usually describe weight and finish rather than any real place of origin.

How the cloth is made

The characteristic feel comes from the yarn. Some warp or weft threads are given a very high twist, in opposite directions in alternate picks, and are then woven in a plain or simple weave. After weaving, the cloth is boiled or steamed so that the twisted threads contract, and this makes the crinkle. Mysore crepe is woven in pure silk with a small amount of zari, and its warp and weft are both silk. Synthetic crepe is woven on powerlooms and may be printed, dyed, or digitally patterned, with variations in weight depending on the yarn.

How it feels and falls

Crepe feels slightly rough and grainy, with a dull sheen and no slippery shine. It is heavier than chiffon or georgette and falls in soft, close folds that follow the body, so it is easy to drape and holds pleats without much fuss. Silk crepe is breathable and comfortable, while polyester crepe is less so but dries fast and resists wrinkles well. Because the surface is textured, small creases and marks do not show easily, and that makes crepe a practical choice for travel, long workdays and office wear. It takes printing and dye well, so there are many bright and abstract patterns.

Where in India and South Asia it is woven

Mysuru and Bengaluru in Karnataka are the home of crepe silk, with a long link to the Mysore silk industry, and the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation sells it widely. Synthetic crepe is produced in Surat in Gujarat and in other mill towns, and printed and finished in Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata. Some crepe is also woven in West Bengal and Tamil Nadu in silk and blends. Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka use crepe in many everyday sarees and dress fabrics, and crepe is common in office and uniform sarees in several of these places.

How to tell the real thing

Silk crepe has a soft, slightly warm touch, a matte glow, and a pebbled texture that is visible up close. Polyester crepe feels cooler and smoother, and its surface looks even and a little shinier. A careful flame test on a loose thread will show the difference: silk smells of burnt hair and leaves an ash that crushes, while polyester melts into a bead. Look for the Silk Mark on pure silk, and ask whether the zari is real or imitation. Check that the crinkle is uniform across the saree, as uneven crinkle or stretched patches suggest poor finishing. The weight should feel substantial, not flimsy.

Famous sarees and centres

• Mysore crepe silk: A plain, pure silk crepe from Karnataka, often with a zari border.
• Crepe de chine: A light crepe cloth with a soft, fine pebble, usually in silk.
• Polyester crepe: An affordable, wrinkle-resistant crepe in printed and plain forms.
• Printed crepe: Crepe sarees with floral or abstract printed designs.
• Crepe with zari border: Plain crepe with a woven or sewn zari border for formal wear.
• Bengal crepe silk: Silk crepe sarees from Bengal's weaving and printing centres.

Care

• Dry clean pure silk crepe, or hand wash gently in cold water with mild soap.
• Do not wring or scrub, as the crinkle can distort.
• Dry in shade and iron on the reverse on a low heat.
• Fold loosely and avoid hanging heavy crepe for long, as it may stretch.

Sources and further reading

• Crêpe (textile) on Wikipedia
• Mysore silk (Wikipedia)