Regional drapes
The Rajasthani lehenga and odhni
In Rajasthan many women wear a full skirt, a short blouse and a long veil cloth, the odhni, drawn over the head.
Presented by ClearTrust Free for wearers, makers and the curious.
In much of Rajasthan the standard women's dress is not a drape of one long cloth but a three-piece set: a full skirt called the lehenga or ghagra, a short blouse, and an odhni, a long cloth worn over the head and shoulders. Sarees, with the pallu over the head, are also worn. The odhni plays the part that the pallu plays elsewhere.
Wrapped step by step
Each drawing shows the cloth so far, with the newest step outlined in gold. The figure is a front view; the wearer's left is on your right.
Step 1 Step into the lehenga, a full gathered skirt, and tie its cord at the waist. Step 2 Wear the short blouse, called choli or kanchli, with the skirt falling to the ankle. Step 3 Lay the odhni on the head, with one corner at the front. Step 4 Draw the veil cloth across the chest. Step 5 Pass the rest over the shoulder and across the back, spreading it as a shawl. Step 6 Tuck or pin it so that it holds, and let the edge show its border. Finished The Rajasthani lehenga and odhni, seen from the front.
Where it comes from
The desert climate and the habit of covering the head, called ghunghat, made the full skirt and the veil a practical choice. The region is known for tie-dyed bandhani and leheriya, block prints from Bagru and Sanganer, and mirror work, and these are used in the skirts and the odhni. Colour is meaningful: red and yellow for the married, and subdued colours for widows in some communities.
How it looks
The skirt is gathered at the waist and tied with a cord, and falls wide to the ankle. The odhni is laid on the head, with one corner brought over the chest and across the shoulders. Women who wear the saree in Rajasthan often use the seedha pallu, and pull the cloth over the head for modesty.
Who wears it and when
The set is worn daily in many villages and for weddings, Teej and Gangaur. Brides wear it in red or pink, with heavy gota and zari. In towns, the saree and the salwar are also worn. The drape is shown in the festival costume of the fairs and the dance troupes of the state.
Good to know
- In many families a married woman keeps the odhni over her head in front of elders.
Sarees worn this way
Also part of it, and being written: Kota Doria (A light cotton and silk cloth from Kota, much used in summer.).
More on EveryPallu
Sources and further reading
Original text and drawings by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. The drawings are simplified diagrams of the order of wrapping, not a lesson: how a drape is worn differs from family to family. If we have something wrong, tell us.