Community drapes
The Kodava drape
The saree of the Kodava women of Kodagu, with pleats gathered at the back and the pallu pinned at the shoulder.
Presented by ClearTrust Free for wearers, makers and the curious.
The Kodava women of Kodagu, in Karnataka, wear the saree with the pleats gathered at the back instead of the front. A long-sleeved blouse is worn under it. The pallu is brought from behind across the chest and pinned at the shoulder. It is one of the most easily recognised regional drapes in the south.
Wrapped step by step
Each drawing shows the cloth so far, with the newest step outlined in gold. The figure is a front view; the wearer's left is on your right.
Step 1 Tuck the plain end of the saree into the petticoat at the right hip. Step 2 Wrap the cloth once round the waist, from right to left. Step 3 Gather the remaining cloth into pleats, as for a regular saree. Step 4 Instead of tucking them at the navel, carry the pleats round to the back of the waist. Step 5 Bring the pallu from behind and across the chest. Step 6 Pin the pallu at the shoulder with a brooch or a safety pin. Step 7 Let the end of the pallu fall, and straighten the hem. Finished The Kodava drape, seen from the front.
Where it comes from
Kodagu is a hill district of Karnataka, home to the Kodava community, who have their own language, customs and dress. The back-pleated saree is part of that dress. It is often linked to the demands of a hill life with steep paths, estates and fields, where a long front skirt would be a hindrance. The community also wears a distinct set of clothing and ornaments at weddings.
How it looks
The cloth is wrapped round the waist, and the gathered pleats are tucked at the back, giving a shape like a small fan behind the hips. The pallu is carried from the back across the chest and fastened at the shoulder with a pin or brooch. The blouse, called kupya, has long sleeves, and a further cloth, the chale, is worn with it in the traditional dress.
Who wears it and when
Kodava women wear the style at weddings and community gatherings, at festivals such as Kail Muhurtha and Huttari, and on formal occasions. Everyday wear has changed in recent decades, and the drape is now used mostly for special days.
Sarees worn this way
Also part of it, and being written: Mysore silk (A light silk from Karnataka, commonly worn on formal days.).
Sources and further reading
Original text and drawings by the EveryPallu desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. The drawings are simplified diagrams of the order of wrapping, not a lesson: how a drape is worn differs from family to family. If we have something wrong, tell us.
Photo credits on this page
The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.
- Sari: Suyash.dwivedi, CC BY-SA 4.0, source